Part 4 Standing in the Sun, Egypt
I landed in Cairo's airport after a seeming eternity on the airplane...not surprising since we'd traveled what I believe is a ¼ of the earth's circumference. when we had landed in India we were asked to please step onto the tarmac and identify our luggage so that it could be reloaded on the plane. I thought this was weird at 4 am, what was weirder was we shared the flight with armed guards at the front and rear of the plane. The strange thing about the airport in Cairo is that it is only the home of the official transactions of entering and leaving the country, there are no airline offices located there. I waited by luggage claim for the better part of an hour waiting for my suitcase. I finally went to the customs desk and asked after it. The Uniformed man told me to be patient. I returned to my seat and waited another hour. I returned to the man behind the counter, I suggested that everyone on my flight had claimed their luggage and there had been at least two others since then. He took my passport and looked at my ticket, called someone and said that yes, it was here and I needed to be patient. I had been awake for about 20 hours by this time. I was getting a bit cranky, so after waiting yet another hour I walked up to him and began a conversation. Come to find out, he had a son going to Cal Tech. I commented that that was a fine school. I myself was an artist, I was heading to Art school. He nodded. I mentioned that seeing Egypt had been a life long dream, to actually walk on the ground of the Pharaoh's, to examine the birth place of western civilization...I was excited to get started. He smiled and nodded. I gently mentioned that I had had very little sleep in the last 3 days and had been awake now for the last 20+ hours and that the first thing on my list of things to do was to take a shower and get some much needed sleep. He sighed. He then asked for my passport again and my ticket. He motioned me to the side of the table and turned to face askew from me, I guess so that he could not be accused of speaking to me. “Mr. Kauslick there is a problem. We examined your bag, the razors and bottle of ink is explained by your being an artist. We x-rayed the statues in your bag and found them to be nothing more then souvenirs so we can give you back your bag...However it is policy to allow no one to enter the country that hasn't confirmed their flight out.” I said “OK, point me at the office I have to go to and I'll take care of it immediately.” He pursed his lips and shook his head gently “No, you see, the place where you would do that is in Downtown Cairo, I see you have a reservation at *********** Hotel...The place you would take care of this is across the street from your hotel. You see, I can't let you leave the airport because you haven't assured us you're going to fly out after a week, however you can't assure us that you are going to leave Egypt unless I allow you to leave the airport. Thus the problem...” I looked at him blankly...”you mean I'm going to live here in the airport from now on?” He pursed his lips again. “Mr. Kauslick, I'm going to take a chance on you. It takes One hour to drive from here to your hotel. I will allow you 15 minutes to check into your hotel. I will call the airline office in one hour and 20 minutes. If by that time you have not confirmed your flight out....Well sir, I wouldn't want my son to find himself in the position you'll be in, even in America.” I nodded and assured him that I would deal with this within the time frame. He smiled and nodded. I shook his hand and he brought out my bag. He stamped my passport and checked his watch. I ran through the currency exchange (you can't enter Egypt without having $200 Egyptian pounds on you) and hit the street. What awaited me was a line of official cab looking vehicles and a few free agents. I chose one who was driving what I recall was an Old Buick or Plymouth that was in dire need of a new set of rings. He introduced himself and I introduced myself. Then I presented him with a proposition. “ I need to get to ********** hotel. I know it takes an hour. You will run the meter and I will pay you the fee in Egyptian Pounds. However....”(I opened my wallet and pulled an American $20, I had a reserve of about $100 in American currency, cause it is the international language) IF you can get me to the front of my hotel in ½ an hour I will place this bill in your hands & I will ask Allah to bless you and your family.” he smiled, he had about 3 gold teeth in the front, loaded my bag in the back and floored the vehicle. I'll tell you what, if that guy had ever wanted to take a job driving stock cars, he'd have had a swell career. When we got to bridge that crosses the Nile, we hit a snag. It seems traffic was backed up because a donkey had died in the road about ½ a mile from where we were. I know this cause the driver pulled up on the sidewalk and drove the half mile around it. He got to the other side of the bridge and I could hear that American made engine scream. He was moving through traffic like he had studied the chase seen in the movie “The French Connection” and had done a masters thesis on it. The Lady singing on the radio/cassette player was wailing and he was right behind her. He pulled up in front of my Hotel 40 minutes after he threw my bags in the trunk. I paid him his fee in English pounds as promised and then I pulled the 20 from my wallet, put it in his hand and “You earned this.” I ran up the stairs and the doorman opened the door for me, I dropped my bag, pulled out my Passport and my reservation number and asked the guy behind the desk to please check me in as quickly as was possible, and please tell me how to get to the airline office I needed to find. He checked me in and gave me directions. I asked him if he could just please have my bag taken to my room I had something I had to do. He nodded, rang the bell and told the bell hop where to take my bag, assuring me my key would be waiting for me when I returned. I dashed out the front door, down the stairs and across the street. I found the office. There was a line of about 20 people in front of me. I watched all the people answering phones until I was about 5 people away from the front. I saw the only woman in the office pick up the phone and mouth my name. I got out of line and tapped on the glass she had in front of her, I put my open passport against the glass and told her to tell him I was here and I was taking care of it. She read it, said something in Arabic. Smiled at me and nodded. I got back in line & took care of the reservation. I sauntered back across the street at a more leisurely pace and climbed up the stairs. The doorman smiled and nodded at me, “Did Sir get his business taken care of?” I smiled back. “Yes sir, and my name is Albert, Sir is a term of respect I hardly deserve.” He chuckled and held the door for me. I entered, got my key and asked to send a telex to my parents in care of Morgan Equipment. I wrote out ' DAD-got to Egypt, oh what a story I have to tell you. All is well so far. Kiss mom 4 me- A' . I got to my room, stripped down, took a shower and collapsed in the bed. I was asleep almost instantly and I slept for almost 16 hours.
When I awoke it was to the sound of a call to prayer being broadcast on loudspeakers somewhere outside. It was afternoon. The sun was low in the sky. I walked to the bathroom and found two facilities there. One was a western Toilet and the other had a metal ring on the inside of the bowl with holes that pointed upward and a foot pedal. I approached it cautiously and I examined it without actually touching it. Once I had gathered a fair amount of information I believed I understood how it worked, but to test my theory I took a step back and placed my bare foot gently on the foot pedal. Water shot out of the holes and arched towards the center like a fountain. Hmmm. I examined it again and said aloud for no one to hear “I'll be damned.” I found out later that this was a bidet. Although the novelty of it was appealing I chose to stick with the equipment I was licensed and trained to use. I took another shower, washed out my dirty clothes and got dressed. I stepped onto the small Veranda that overlooked the Nile. There was one of those triangular sailed ships heading up river and the sound of traffic and people rose to my ears. I realized that I had not eaten since the sandwiches I'd had more then a day before and I decided it might be a decent time to get some chow. I put on my trusty Puma's and walked to the restaurant and ordered some chicken. After dinner I went back down to the Lobby and out the door. The same doorman was standing there. “Good evening S..., I mean Albert Sir.” I smiled and nodded. I asked his name and he gave it. I said, “I need your advice. I'm here in your wonderful country to see the museum of Egyptology, the Pyramids , Sphinx the place that was referred to as Mosque of 1,000 lights. I also want to experience Cairo as a non typical tourist. My question to you is this, would I be better off hiring cabs to take me to these places or should I take a bus or something like it, and if this is the case where would I find a bus schedule?” He nodded and then got the door for another tourist who didn't make eye contact with the doorman but gave me a nod. I nodded back, and looked back to the doorman saying, “I don't know why he was looking at me, your the one who has the cool threads.” This caused the doorman to chuckle. He nodded and said “Albert, sir, my nephew is saving up to buy his girlfriend an engagement ring. She's a beautiful girl and her family is well respected. I assume that you are a student at University?” I shrugged and nodded “Not yet, but I'm on my way...I'm going to Art school, thus the reason for my trip here. To know the adult, study the child- as far as western civilization goes.” He nodded, “Yes Albert sir, my Nephew is also a student at University, He is taking up engineering. I believe he could take you wherever you would wish to go for shall we say $100 Egyptian pounds for the entire week you are to be here?” I Nodded, “ I might want to do a few other things not just what I told you. To be honest I'm wanting to see all that I can.” He nodded. “He will happily take you where you wish to go for the week for $100 Egyptian Pounds.” I smiled gave him a nod, shook his hand and told him to have his nephew meet me here in the morning. I re entered the Hotel and made my way back to the room and read till I fell asleep.
The Next morning I was starving. I made my way to the restaurant and ate the continental breakfast, drank 2 cups of the coffee (“Home brew, not the stuff the European's want” I told the waiter and I'm here to tell you that that shit was as stiff as a board) I hit the street the doorman met me, smiled and introduced me to his Nephew. He was a tall 20 year old. Handsome swarthy with a single Eyebrow. I asked him how he wanted payment, now, after, during? He said that He needed gas however I could pay the balance at the end of the week. I gave him a bill and said the first thing I wanted to do was hit the Sphinx and the Pyramids. He nodded and asked if I might like to stop at Memphis first as it was on the way. I said sure. We stopped and saw the great monolithic statue of Ramses in Memphis and the small ruin there and was off to the plain of Giza. We pulled into the public parking area and my driver said he had some errands to run, however he would be back to pick me up in 2 hours. I said to make it 3. Then I walked. I stood were Napoleon stood and was face to face with the Great Sphinx, I wondered how many had stood there in that spot in 4,000 years seeking the answer. There are rumors that the Sphinx is much much older then the Pyramids, by thousands and thousands of years. I sat on the sand and drew what it was that I saw. Then I walked to the Great Pyramid of Khufu. Although it resembles a big pile of rocks I knew that at one time that the whole thing was once covered with polished alabaster, and the crown was of solid gold and shown like a star. It was said that the Greeks could see it on a clear day. A tour of the inside was being formed and I joined. We went in through the hole that Napoleon had blasted in it, and climbed the long ramp and stood in the silent empty burial chamber. Then we exited and examined the smaller pyramids surrounding it. I sat down again and drew all of what was in front of me. A man with a camel came up and asked if I wished to ride. I asked him where he was going and he just looked at me. I only then realize that this supposed to part of the Souvenir picture opportunity so you could say to your friends you were Lawrence of Arabia and produce the proof that you weren't nuts. I thanked him and said no. I moved to another spot and drew an odd angle of the Sphinx with extreme perspective. When I was almost finished with my drawing my ride had returned and found me. It was then well into the afternoon. He asked if I was hungry. I said sure, I could eat. He then took me to a crowded cafe and ordered for us both. To this day I don't know what I was eating, but it was mighty tasty. I think this was his form of test. The food was obviously unfamiliar to me however when it arrived I watched his technique on how to eat it and dug right in...I didn't ask what was in it, Hell if didn't kill him I doubted it'd kill me. I was returned safely to the hotel and told him to meet me there in the morning.
The next morning I hit the road ready to do the museum of Egyptology. I had my full drawing kit and my pad. He dropped me off in front of the main exit and asked when he should return. I told him to return at the end of the day, I had much to do here. As I entered the museum I was told I was not allowed to bring my pad and drawing materials in. I argued with the security guard that this was why I was here. He led me to his boss, same conversation, on to his boss....all the way up the food chain. An hour later I found myself in the office of the Director of the Old Dynasty wing. It was a nice office, a touch of classic with a hint of modern. The air conditioning was a bit too high for my taste and the Woman behind the desk was dressed as one might expect a museum director to dress. I sat. We had the same conversation that I had had all morning. I asked why I was not allowed to carry my drawing materials into the museum. I was told that they were afraid I might attempt to damage the antiques. I shook my head in disbelief. “Madam, I have traveled halfway around the globe to be here right now. And half of that in one leap. I have come far to see these things, to study them and to keep a record of my findings. This place is filled with the creative efforts of men, without these efforts you would have nothing to study, this would be a mausoleum filled with very old cloth wrapped bodies. You would not know from when or where just that they were old. By studying them you understand your own culture and to know the past you can understand the future. This is the cradle for my own culture, are you saying you'd deny me that understanding?” She looked over her glasses at me. “Sir, by your own admission you are not associated with any school, you are going to begin University at an Art school this fall. How do I even know if you are what you say you are?” I handed her my sketchbook. “I did those yesterday.” She flipped back and fourth and kept coming back to the accelerated perspective drawing of the Sphinx. She handed me back the sketchbook and said “You are very good. I think that if you were to make a cultural contribution to the collection it would prove your sincerity.” I looked at her and understood what she wanted. “Will this drawing do?” She nodded. I signed it and tore it out of the sketchbook. She then hand wrote a note in Arabic saying “if any of the guards suggest you have your tools in the museum without permission please show them this note, if there is any other problem please have them call me.” and I took my note and left her office and proceeded into the collection. For all I know that drawing is still in her office. I got a map of the museum and began walking amongst the collection. When I went into the hall of the monoliths I looked carefully at the statues that were attached to the walls. At one time the walls had been painted a light gray, then after that a very institutional light mint green, and then the present yellow. How did I know this? They had not bothered to mask off the statues from the walls so there was a ribbon of color where the statues met the walls. The gray was the oldest, then the green was on top of that, then the yellow. I also noticed that many of the statues had been the victim of of over spray or spray from a brush as they had a thin mist of the yellow paint on them. So much for their concern that I might be the one to damage the antiques. You cannot imagine the amount of stuff that they store in that museum. The mummies were stacked like cord wood. We are talking hundreds upon hundreds of mummified cats. Glass Cases of the jars used to store the organs of a mummified person. They made a habit of wrapping small charms of precious metal and semi precious stones in with the mummy-there was an endless number of these, and statues, and pieces of statues....My god it looked like history's rummage sale. The star attraction of King Tut's tomb just happened to be in New York at the time (Damnit, it would fit I'd travel half way round the world to see this stuff and the star of the show was in my own country). Oh well. I did some drawings of the statues, a couple of a much smaller and more complete sphinx and some line drawings of some of the charms, mostly concerning the God who's name I believe is Bela, the prankster god of children. I also took about a roll of film. I was hassled about a dozen times, I pulled out the note, they read it, handed it back and left me alone.
I decided it might be time to get some chow, so I left the museum and headed in a direction seeking a place to eat. As I walked I encountered Cairo. What a place. Women dressed from head to toe completely in black with the only visible part of them being their hands and eyes, they seemed to flow across the street effortlessly. The men were dressed in this garment that looked like a thick Night shirt with pockets...I decided I must have one. As I traveled down the street I saw something that I thought would be an unbelievable photo Op. I saw an ancient man in what seemed traditional dress astride a donkey. Both were leaning against a high stone wall seemingly asleep. I thought of the scene in the Movie Cat Balou where Lee Marvin is in just such a pose. I pulled the camera up to my eye after having put a new roll in moments before and pulled the image into focus. I reached for the shuttle release and heard a nose that every man seems to instinctively know: The sound of the bolts of rifles being pulled back to load a bullet into the chamber. I dropped the camera and looked to my left. A soldier was pointing a rifle at me, I turned to my right another soldier another rifle, I instinctively backed out of the way and felt one behind me. “NO Take picture!” said the one to my right. I nodded and dropped the camera back down around my neck. “NO TAKE PICTURE!!!” he repeated. I nodded and pulled it up to show him that the picture counter was still on “0”. He nodded and they lowered their rifles. “YOU GO NOW!!!!!!” and I nodded and was on my way. I am truly amazed I didn't shit myself. I walked up the block and turned the corner attempting to get out of the line of site in case they changed their minds. I turned again just to make sure I'd lost them....I saw the front of what I had previously been trying to photograph the back wall of. It was an Embassy, and I seem to remember it was the Swiss Embassy. It all added up...the middle east was and still is a tense political situation and I had just had my first taste of it. I nervously found a place to grab a bite and returned to the museum using an alternate path. At days end my ride was there and I was delivered back to the hotel and as I read myself to sleep that night I thought....”dear diary, was not killed today. I guess we should call it a success.”
The next day I was bound for a place that I was told I could not, should not miss. It was referred to as the “mosque of a thousand lights”although the only place that I could find now that had that reference was in India. I told my driver what I knew and he delivered me to a medieval fortress of a building and told me to meet him back at this entrance in 3 hours. Considering it was 30 years ago I believe it was the Mosque of Sultan Hassan and/or El Rifai Mosque which is just across the street. I just don't recall. The description of one fits except for one detail and it is present in the other. I was greeted at the gate by a man at the great doors with "Salam alékum,” he then asked if I would like a tour of the great Mosque? I said yes, He told me it would cost me the sum of 5 Egyptian Pounds as an offering. I said of course. I was then told that I should either remove my shoes or apply coverings for them, These I could use for the sum of another 5 Egyptian pounds. I said of course. I applied canvas like sacks to cover my shoes. I was then asked if I might like the tour in French, German, Italian or English. I said English and we were off. The place had been what we think of as a Cathedral of sorts. It was a school as well as a place to gather to contemplate and pray. He gave me a tour of the extensive grounds, the buildings that had acted as dormitories for the schools were abandoned. We then entered the place of prayer. How to describe this place? It was immense. Unlike the St. Peters in Rome which looks like an overcrowded Antique store this place was lavish and restrained. The beauty was in the small things, the interlocking blocks that left engineers baffled. The mosaics on the walls constructed without mortar or any kind of adhesive, the intricate patterns that were part decorative but also Cali graphic passages from the Koran. I am attempting with little success to filter through my memories of this place seeking details that I can relate. It was overwhelming, The quietness, the silence. I have to say that in my opinion that if God were to visit he'd feel more comfortable here then at the Vatican. There was a tomb that was surrounded by sandalwood screen that was immense. The smell of the sandalwood both pungent and sweet, Small indentations in the walls that had had elaborate patterns when one looked, yet when one stepped back they were of simplicity itself and could easily be missed. I have never seen anything like this place, and were I to ever go back to Cairo I would scour the city until I found it again and I would just sit and take reams of notes and thousands of sketches. I have remembered this place whenever I sit down to design something, I remember the lessons learned there. Many people celebrate my designs as being pure, that there is nothing that I include that does not belong, or does not serve the overall purpose...It was here that I learned the importance of these qualities. My head reeled as I stepped back into the world. Unfortunately I stepped out in a place that was not where I had gone in. I walked along the wall and encountered the Egyptian mystique, yet the presence of the military on every corner assured that this was only part of the whole...I finally found where I went in and my driver waited for me, he was much relieved to see me, it seems I had been let out in somewhat dangerous part of town. I mentioned to him that I wished I could find one of the garments that I saw men wearing...He smiled as we got into his car and said in essence “I know a guy...”. He had attempted to make my riding with him comfortable by playing Rock and Roll from the west on his stereo...however one can only listen to Smoke on the water so many times...I commented that he must REALLY like Deep Purple...He looked at me and told me that he had only played it for my sake. Would I like to listen to some local stuff. I told him I was here and 'when in Rome...'. He didn't know the passage. However he did put on an 8 track of some local Egyptian music that he rather enjoyed. It wasn't unpleasant...doesn't help when you can't understand the lyrics...however it beat the hell out of deep purple. We arrived at his friends store. I was greeted by the owner and told I was his first customer and thus he must make the best deal of the day with me. I explained what I was looking for...He produced examples of the article in question except these were embroidered with patterns, more elaborate, made from finer cloth. I shook my head no, no, no. I could tell that he was getting frustrated. He asked again what it is that I was looking for. I took him to the door of his s hop and pointed at a man walking down the street....”THAT is what I want.” He shook his head in disbelief. why would I want the clothes of a common worker? I smiled and said “because my friend, I AM a common worker. He nodded and brought forth the same garments as before accept in common canvas, the pockets deep, long sleeves that covered my hands should I need to touch something hot. I smiled and told him I'd take two. He then attempted to sell me the head gear cloth with the joined head band that one immediately associates with an Arab suggesting that it would amuse my friends. I shook my head and assured this man that any friend of mine would not be amused by the clothes of such a complex group of people, more amazed at what I would tell them I'd seen. This seemed to impress the hell out of him, He knocked 20% off the price he'd quoted me for what I had chosen to buy. I wore those garments for years. They were warm in the cold of Cleveland winter, they were cool in warmth of the summer. They got covered in spilled ink, coffee, torn and patched, until they were little more then rags. Best article of clothes I ever bought. I have had complaints concerning the length of the chunks of my trip so I'll just end this here and next we'll go to Greece.
When I awoke it was to the sound of a call to prayer being broadcast on loudspeakers somewhere outside. It was afternoon. The sun was low in the sky. I walked to the bathroom and found two facilities there. One was a western Toilet and the other had a metal ring on the inside of the bowl with holes that pointed upward and a foot pedal. I approached it cautiously and I examined it without actually touching it. Once I had gathered a fair amount of information I believed I understood how it worked, but to test my theory I took a step back and placed my bare foot gently on the foot pedal. Water shot out of the holes and arched towards the center like a fountain. Hmmm. I examined it again and said aloud for no one to hear “I'll be damned.” I found out later that this was a bidet. Although the novelty of it was appealing I chose to stick with the equipment I was licensed and trained to use. I took another shower, washed out my dirty clothes and got dressed. I stepped onto the small Veranda that overlooked the Nile. There was one of those triangular sailed ships heading up river and the sound of traffic and people rose to my ears. I realized that I had not eaten since the sandwiches I'd had more then a day before and I decided it might be a decent time to get some chow. I put on my trusty Puma's and walked to the restaurant and ordered some chicken. After dinner I went back down to the Lobby and out the door. The same doorman was standing there. “Good evening S..., I mean Albert Sir.” I smiled and nodded. I asked his name and he gave it. I said, “I need your advice. I'm here in your wonderful country to see the museum of Egyptology, the Pyramids , Sphinx the place that was referred to as Mosque of 1,000 lights. I also want to experience Cairo as a non typical tourist. My question to you is this, would I be better off hiring cabs to take me to these places or should I take a bus or something like it, and if this is the case where would I find a bus schedule?” He nodded and then got the door for another tourist who didn't make eye contact with the doorman but gave me a nod. I nodded back, and looked back to the doorman saying, “I don't know why he was looking at me, your the one who has the cool threads.” This caused the doorman to chuckle. He nodded and said “Albert, sir, my nephew is saving up to buy his girlfriend an engagement ring. She's a beautiful girl and her family is well respected. I assume that you are a student at University?” I shrugged and nodded “Not yet, but I'm on my way...I'm going to Art school, thus the reason for my trip here. To know the adult, study the child- as far as western civilization goes.” He nodded, “Yes Albert sir, my Nephew is also a student at University, He is taking up engineering. I believe he could take you wherever you would wish to go for shall we say $100 Egyptian pounds for the entire week you are to be here?” I Nodded, “ I might want to do a few other things not just what I told you. To be honest I'm wanting to see all that I can.” He nodded. “He will happily take you where you wish to go for the week for $100 Egyptian Pounds.” I smiled gave him a nod, shook his hand and told him to have his nephew meet me here in the morning. I re entered the Hotel and made my way back to the room and read till I fell asleep.
The Next morning I was starving. I made my way to the restaurant and ate the continental breakfast, drank 2 cups of the coffee (“Home brew, not the stuff the European's want” I told the waiter and I'm here to tell you that that shit was as stiff as a board) I hit the street the doorman met me, smiled and introduced me to his Nephew. He was a tall 20 year old. Handsome swarthy with a single Eyebrow. I asked him how he wanted payment, now, after, during? He said that He needed gas however I could pay the balance at the end of the week. I gave him a bill and said the first thing I wanted to do was hit the Sphinx and the Pyramids. He nodded and asked if I might like to stop at Memphis first as it was on the way. I said sure. We stopped and saw the great monolithic statue of Ramses in Memphis and the small ruin there and was off to the plain of Giza. We pulled into the public parking area and my driver said he had some errands to run, however he would be back to pick me up in 2 hours. I said to make it 3. Then I walked. I stood were Napoleon stood and was face to face with the Great Sphinx, I wondered how many had stood there in that spot in 4,000 years seeking the answer. There are rumors that the Sphinx is much much older then the Pyramids, by thousands and thousands of years. I sat on the sand and drew what it was that I saw. Then I walked to the Great Pyramid of Khufu. Although it resembles a big pile of rocks I knew that at one time that the whole thing was once covered with polished alabaster, and the crown was of solid gold and shown like a star. It was said that the Greeks could see it on a clear day. A tour of the inside was being formed and I joined. We went in through the hole that Napoleon had blasted in it, and climbed the long ramp and stood in the silent empty burial chamber. Then we exited and examined the smaller pyramids surrounding it. I sat down again and drew all of what was in front of me. A man with a camel came up and asked if I wished to ride. I asked him where he was going and he just looked at me. I only then realize that this supposed to part of the Souvenir picture opportunity so you could say to your friends you were Lawrence of Arabia and produce the proof that you weren't nuts. I thanked him and said no. I moved to another spot and drew an odd angle of the Sphinx with extreme perspective. When I was almost finished with my drawing my ride had returned and found me. It was then well into the afternoon. He asked if I was hungry. I said sure, I could eat. He then took me to a crowded cafe and ordered for us both. To this day I don't know what I was eating, but it was mighty tasty. I think this was his form of test. The food was obviously unfamiliar to me however when it arrived I watched his technique on how to eat it and dug right in...I didn't ask what was in it, Hell if didn't kill him I doubted it'd kill me. I was returned safely to the hotel and told him to meet me there in the morning.
The next morning I hit the road ready to do the museum of Egyptology. I had my full drawing kit and my pad. He dropped me off in front of the main exit and asked when he should return. I told him to return at the end of the day, I had much to do here. As I entered the museum I was told I was not allowed to bring my pad and drawing materials in. I argued with the security guard that this was why I was here. He led me to his boss, same conversation, on to his boss....all the way up the food chain. An hour later I found myself in the office of the Director of the Old Dynasty wing. It was a nice office, a touch of classic with a hint of modern. The air conditioning was a bit too high for my taste and the Woman behind the desk was dressed as one might expect a museum director to dress. I sat. We had the same conversation that I had had all morning. I asked why I was not allowed to carry my drawing materials into the museum. I was told that they were afraid I might attempt to damage the antiques. I shook my head in disbelief. “Madam, I have traveled halfway around the globe to be here right now. And half of that in one leap. I have come far to see these things, to study them and to keep a record of my findings. This place is filled with the creative efforts of men, without these efforts you would have nothing to study, this would be a mausoleum filled with very old cloth wrapped bodies. You would not know from when or where just that they were old. By studying them you understand your own culture and to know the past you can understand the future. This is the cradle for my own culture, are you saying you'd deny me that understanding?” She looked over her glasses at me. “Sir, by your own admission you are not associated with any school, you are going to begin University at an Art school this fall. How do I even know if you are what you say you are?” I handed her my sketchbook. “I did those yesterday.” She flipped back and fourth and kept coming back to the accelerated perspective drawing of the Sphinx. She handed me back the sketchbook and said “You are very good. I think that if you were to make a cultural contribution to the collection it would prove your sincerity.” I looked at her and understood what she wanted. “Will this drawing do?” She nodded. I signed it and tore it out of the sketchbook. She then hand wrote a note in Arabic saying “if any of the guards suggest you have your tools in the museum without permission please show them this note, if there is any other problem please have them call me.” and I took my note and left her office and proceeded into the collection. For all I know that drawing is still in her office. I got a map of the museum and began walking amongst the collection. When I went into the hall of the monoliths I looked carefully at the statues that were attached to the walls. At one time the walls had been painted a light gray, then after that a very institutional light mint green, and then the present yellow. How did I know this? They had not bothered to mask off the statues from the walls so there was a ribbon of color where the statues met the walls. The gray was the oldest, then the green was on top of that, then the yellow. I also noticed that many of the statues had been the victim of of over spray or spray from a brush as they had a thin mist of the yellow paint on them. So much for their concern that I might be the one to damage the antiques. You cannot imagine the amount of stuff that they store in that museum. The mummies were stacked like cord wood. We are talking hundreds upon hundreds of mummified cats. Glass Cases of the jars used to store the organs of a mummified person. They made a habit of wrapping small charms of precious metal and semi precious stones in with the mummy-there was an endless number of these, and statues, and pieces of statues....My god it looked like history's rummage sale. The star attraction of King Tut's tomb just happened to be in New York at the time (Damnit, it would fit I'd travel half way round the world to see this stuff and the star of the show was in my own country). Oh well. I did some drawings of the statues, a couple of a much smaller and more complete sphinx and some line drawings of some of the charms, mostly concerning the God who's name I believe is Bela, the prankster god of children. I also took about a roll of film. I was hassled about a dozen times, I pulled out the note, they read it, handed it back and left me alone.
I decided it might be time to get some chow, so I left the museum and headed in a direction seeking a place to eat. As I walked I encountered Cairo. What a place. Women dressed from head to toe completely in black with the only visible part of them being their hands and eyes, they seemed to flow across the street effortlessly. The men were dressed in this garment that looked like a thick Night shirt with pockets...I decided I must have one. As I traveled down the street I saw something that I thought would be an unbelievable photo Op. I saw an ancient man in what seemed traditional dress astride a donkey. Both were leaning against a high stone wall seemingly asleep. I thought of the scene in the Movie Cat Balou where Lee Marvin is in just such a pose. I pulled the camera up to my eye after having put a new roll in moments before and pulled the image into focus. I reached for the shuttle release and heard a nose that every man seems to instinctively know: The sound of the bolts of rifles being pulled back to load a bullet into the chamber. I dropped the camera and looked to my left. A soldier was pointing a rifle at me, I turned to my right another soldier another rifle, I instinctively backed out of the way and felt one behind me. “NO Take picture!” said the one to my right. I nodded and dropped the camera back down around my neck. “NO TAKE PICTURE!!!” he repeated. I nodded and pulled it up to show him that the picture counter was still on “0”. He nodded and they lowered their rifles. “YOU GO NOW!!!!!!” and I nodded and was on my way. I am truly amazed I didn't shit myself. I walked up the block and turned the corner attempting to get out of the line of site in case they changed their minds. I turned again just to make sure I'd lost them....I saw the front of what I had previously been trying to photograph the back wall of. It was an Embassy, and I seem to remember it was the Swiss Embassy. It all added up...the middle east was and still is a tense political situation and I had just had my first taste of it. I nervously found a place to grab a bite and returned to the museum using an alternate path. At days end my ride was there and I was delivered back to the hotel and as I read myself to sleep that night I thought....”dear diary, was not killed today. I guess we should call it a success.”
The next day I was bound for a place that I was told I could not, should not miss. It was referred to as the “mosque of a thousand lights”although the only place that I could find now that had that reference was in India. I told my driver what I knew and he delivered me to a medieval fortress of a building and told me to meet him back at this entrance in 3 hours. Considering it was 30 years ago I believe it was the Mosque of Sultan Hassan and/or El Rifai Mosque which is just across the street. I just don't recall. The description of one fits except for one detail and it is present in the other. I was greeted at the gate by a man at the great doors with "Salam alékum,” he then asked if I would like a tour of the great Mosque? I said yes, He told me it would cost me the sum of 5 Egyptian Pounds as an offering. I said of course. I was then told that I should either remove my shoes or apply coverings for them, These I could use for the sum of another 5 Egyptian pounds. I said of course. I applied canvas like sacks to cover my shoes. I was then asked if I might like the tour in French, German, Italian or English. I said English and we were off. The place had been what we think of as a Cathedral of sorts. It was a school as well as a place to gather to contemplate and pray. He gave me a tour of the extensive grounds, the buildings that had acted as dormitories for the schools were abandoned. We then entered the place of prayer. How to describe this place? It was immense. Unlike the St. Peters in Rome which looks like an overcrowded Antique store this place was lavish and restrained. The beauty was in the small things, the interlocking blocks that left engineers baffled. The mosaics on the walls constructed without mortar or any kind of adhesive, the intricate patterns that were part decorative but also Cali graphic passages from the Koran. I am attempting with little success to filter through my memories of this place seeking details that I can relate. It was overwhelming, The quietness, the silence. I have to say that in my opinion that if God were to visit he'd feel more comfortable here then at the Vatican. There was a tomb that was surrounded by sandalwood screen that was immense. The smell of the sandalwood both pungent and sweet, Small indentations in the walls that had had elaborate patterns when one looked, yet when one stepped back they were of simplicity itself and could easily be missed. I have never seen anything like this place, and were I to ever go back to Cairo I would scour the city until I found it again and I would just sit and take reams of notes and thousands of sketches. I have remembered this place whenever I sit down to design something, I remember the lessons learned there. Many people celebrate my designs as being pure, that there is nothing that I include that does not belong, or does not serve the overall purpose...It was here that I learned the importance of these qualities. My head reeled as I stepped back into the world. Unfortunately I stepped out in a place that was not where I had gone in. I walked along the wall and encountered the Egyptian mystique, yet the presence of the military on every corner assured that this was only part of the whole...I finally found where I went in and my driver waited for me, he was much relieved to see me, it seems I had been let out in somewhat dangerous part of town. I mentioned to him that I wished I could find one of the garments that I saw men wearing...He smiled as we got into his car and said in essence “I know a guy...”. He had attempted to make my riding with him comfortable by playing Rock and Roll from the west on his stereo...however one can only listen to Smoke on the water so many times...I commented that he must REALLY like Deep Purple...He looked at me and told me that he had only played it for my sake. Would I like to listen to some local stuff. I told him I was here and 'when in Rome...'. He didn't know the passage. However he did put on an 8 track of some local Egyptian music that he rather enjoyed. It wasn't unpleasant...doesn't help when you can't understand the lyrics...however it beat the hell out of deep purple. We arrived at his friends store. I was greeted by the owner and told I was his first customer and thus he must make the best deal of the day with me. I explained what I was looking for...He produced examples of the article in question except these were embroidered with patterns, more elaborate, made from finer cloth. I shook my head no, no, no. I could tell that he was getting frustrated. He asked again what it is that I was looking for. I took him to the door of his s hop and pointed at a man walking down the street....”THAT is what I want.” He shook his head in disbelief. why would I want the clothes of a common worker? I smiled and said “because my friend, I AM a common worker. He nodded and brought forth the same garments as before accept in common canvas, the pockets deep, long sleeves that covered my hands should I need to touch something hot. I smiled and told him I'd take two. He then attempted to sell me the head gear cloth with the joined head band that one immediately associates with an Arab suggesting that it would amuse my friends. I shook my head and assured this man that any friend of mine would not be amused by the clothes of such a complex group of people, more amazed at what I would tell them I'd seen. This seemed to impress the hell out of him, He knocked 20% off the price he'd quoted me for what I had chosen to buy. I wore those garments for years. They were warm in the cold of Cleveland winter, they were cool in warmth of the summer. They got covered in spilled ink, coffee, torn and patched, until they were little more then rags. Best article of clothes I ever bought. I have had complaints concerning the length of the chunks of my trip so I'll just end this here and next we'll go to Greece.
posted by ak at 9:04 AM
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